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Thanks so much! The Hatch Academy keeps me pretty busy so I haven't made many videos for my own channel

You'll need to contact the software company. I have no idea and haven't used this software in over 10 years.

A tie off occurs at the beginning and end of a color change or it there is jump to a new area. If you carefully move through the stitches, you can usually detect a pattern that indicate a tie off because it is different from a regular fill, satin, or run.

This frame is "built" by combining designs from my shop. No applque.

Are you clicking that gear thing icon? Does it not show anything? If you are having problems with the software, please contact Embriliiance support on their website.

Even after you convert a satin border to objects, it can be difficult to make it wider. You can add compensation but that should only be done in fractions of a mm. To properly widen the column, you'd need to adjust the nodes on either side. If you need to widen it quite a bit, convert it to objects and redigitize just that section.

This border needs to probably be quite a bit wider and definitely needs more overlap. I did a test sew on a stretch cotton and then sewed on a hoodie with a different fabric content (with a lot of stretch). I did not have any fabric that was the same, so I did my best. I did not hoop the sweatshirt (floated), which was probably a mistake. The result was loss of registration, and the satin border looking 50% smaller (and imo was already too small). I bought a new sweatshirt, and I am doing it over (less stretch). I think your idea is good, and I may just move away the satin border and redigitize a new one with new underlay. I have no way of widening the satin border that I have unless I do it node by node. When I tried that, there were so many nodes, I couldn't even select all of them at once to increase the border evenly. I will iron on the first stabilizer this time and hoop everything. I also bought new hoop screws, because I figured out that mine were a little stripped. Sorry this was a bit long, but I am hoping it helps others with similar issues. I love your videos, and I am a new subscriber!

@@michellenaranjo4340 For stretchy fabrics, use a cutaway. The hoop is part of the stabilizing system so hoop between the rings whenever possible. Also, try using ah adhesive spray to secure the fabric to the stabilizer. I've found that on sweatshirts, you can you sometimes see a "wave" of fabric being pushed along in front of the presser foot and a spray prevents that.

@LindeeGVideos I had done all the things you suggested in this last post with the stabilization. I had 2 layers of cutaway, one fused to the fabric and the second one sprayed with adhesive onto that. I also had one layer of topper. On the new one, I also attached the topper with spray adhesive and I hooped the sweatshirt instead of floating. I purchased new hoop pins (mine were a bit stripped). I also redigitized the border successfully! I still had a tiny bit of loss of registration on the lettering (it was just showing a bit of the running stitch underlay). The lettering was done last in a dense embroidery design. I am thinking that the pull from the dense embroidery moved the fabric above just slightly. I am going to change the order so that lettering above embroiders first, and I think that might solve it. Thanks for all of your help!

If you've created the applique in Hatch as applique with holes, then the holes are included as an outline within the applique when you export it as SVG. So imagine you've digitized a slice of Swiss cheese with the holes as an applique. If the cheese is one applique object on the Sequence Docker, your SVG will look like the design when you export cutting.

I have a font in Hatch for Appliqué it is an ESA font in Hatch the A has the hole, however when I export the A the whole in the A I solid any recommendations how I can make sure the whole in the A has a hole… thank you

What file are you talking about?

The heart design is an EMB design, not an ESA.

​ @LindeeGVideos I was looking for the chain stitches you mention in the video, I went to the link in the description and then from there at the bottom of the page it has a link for 'access the free design' which opens to the 'crazy patch heart' design... I though that zipped file was the one with .esa files of the chain stitch in (but it wasn't). Do you still have the chain-stich motif files somewhere? Would really appreciate it if you do... thank you 😊

@@sadiamahmood3742 I have a set of Crazy Quilt motifs that includes my chain stitch in my shop: lindeegembroidery.com/shop/crazy-patch-motifs-for-hatch

I still have Embrilliance but rarely use it anymore unless I'm making a BX font. Other than that, I use Hatch or ES. I also have DIME's PEP but it's buggy and I couldn't even make a basic applique properly. I just got a notification that bugs I reported in 4 months ago will be fixed in the next update. We'll see…

Baby feet are my own design.

Not sure what tools are in SA1; I'm not currently using Embrilliance. Try it with one of your current fonts. If it works, then it should work with a BX font.

It's not designed for that. It was specifically designed with this size hoop in mind. Also, some appliqués are larger than 4x4 and it would be very difficult to get perfect alignment.

Thanks! Since I now have Hatch 3, any motifs I make won't be backward compatible. I do have more motifs but they are rather random and not such a large, cohesive collection.

Look for stockings made for embroidery that zip open.

I already bought the hats so I’m going to try tomorrow how you did the bigger ones, thanks

Hard to say at this point since this video is 4 years old. Besides, the size is going to be based on the length of your name, the size of the cuff, the font choice, and how you can hoop.

Thank you for your reply, I didn’t realise the video was 4 yeas old , but it has been really very helpful to me so Thank you

There are links in the description under the video.

Thanks so much!

There is a link in the description. tinyurl.com/nuttyguy

The bleeding occurs because of the wicking attributes of the fabric. There are "resist" products we use with batik processes but then you have to deal with getting it out. The trick is to apply it lightly and carefully and not paint it on like you're painting the side of a barn. I use the aloe instead of straight water because it is more controllable.

Thanks! I'm running Parallels on a Mac Desktop Pro with Windows 10. Hatch 3 requires more resources than older versions so you will need to make sure your Mac can reserve enough to match the specs on the Hatch website,

Probably but I don't know how. I've been using Hatch since 2017.

Thanks! I pre-wash mine.

Thanks. Yes they are: lindeegembroidery.com/shop/quilted-corners-detail

You don't have these tools in Essentilals so you can do it there.

Thanks! I'm not sure a hair dryer gets hot enough. But with a lampshade, it's not likely to get washed or wet so I wouldn't worry about it. Besides, with the inkTense pencils, it is pretty much set when it dries.